— — the quiet a small chapel keeps.
“The chapel beneath the Cemetery Church of All Saints, where the bones of perhaps forty thousand people were arranged in 1870 by a local woodcarver named František Rint. A chandelier said to contain every bone in the human body. Pilgrims have been buried here since the thirteenth century, after an abbot returned with soil from Golgotha. People walk through without saying much.
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The ossuary sits beneath the Cemetery Church of All Saints in Sedlec, a suburb of Kutná Hora about seventy kilometres east of Prague. The site dates to 1142, when Sedlec Abbey was founded by Cistercians. In 1278 an abbot returned from Jerusalem with earth from Golgotha and scattered it in the cemetery, making the ground sought-after across Central Europe. Plague and the Hussite wars filled it. In 1870 the woodcarver František Rint was hired to arrange the disinterred remains. The historic centre of Kutná Hora was inscribed by UNESCO in 1995.
The chapel is small, only the lower level of a modest Gothic church, and the acoustic is held by stone. Visitors enter in small groups under timed-entry rules introduced in 2020 to slow the wear on the bones and the floor. Voices drop without anyone asking. The chandelier in the centre hangs from a vaulted ceiling about five metres above the floor and is said to hold at least one of every bone in the human body. The wall pyramids on the four corners contain the remainder. Cameras are no longer permitted inside.
The ossuary is open year-round except 24 December, with entry by timed ticket purchased online in advance since the 2020 conservation rules. The site is reached by train from Prague's main station to Kutná Hora hlavní nádraží in about an hour, then a short walk. A combined ticket includes the Cathedral of Saint Barbara and the Church of the Assumption in Sedlec. Photography inside the chapel was prohibited from 2020 onward to protect the remains. The town of Kutná Hora itself is a silver-mining UNESCO listing worth a half-day on foot.