— a tall spire and a slow amber pour.
“A Bohemian city where the road from Prague slows. The cathedral spire keeps watch over a square that hasn't changed shape in six centuries. Below the cobbles, brewery tunnels run cool and long. The light here is the colour of unfiltered lager held up to a window in late afternoon.
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Plzeň sits in West Bohemia, about 90 kilometres southwest of Prague at the confluence of four rivers: the Mže, Radbuza, Úhlava, and Úslava. Founded in 1295 by King Wenceslas II as a royal trading town, it grew along the salt road between Nuremberg and Prague. Today the city counts roughly 170,000 residents and serves as the seat of the Plzeň Region. Its medieval grid still organises the old town, and Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky) remains one of the largest historic squares in Central Europe.
The Cathedral of St. Bartholomew rises from the centre of Republic Square on a Gothic plan begun in the late 13th century. Its spire, rebuilt and finished at 102.6 metres, is the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic, taller even than St. Vitus in Prague. Inside, the Plzeň Madonna (around 1390) stands on the high altar, a slender stone figure carved during the cathedral's first century. The surrounding burgher houses are largely Renaissance, painted in the warm chalks of the Bohemian palette.
Pilsner Urquell has been brewed in Plzeň since 1842, when Bavarian brewer Josef Groll combined local soft water, Saaz hops, and Moravian barley to produce the first pale lager. The brewery on U Prazdroje street runs guided tours that descend into nine kilometres of sandstone cellars cut beneath the city, where unpasteurised beer is still drawn from oak lagering barrels for tasting. Most tours last about 100 minutes and run daily in several languages.