— — the modernist villa above the old city.
“The second city of the Czech Republic, in southern Moravia about two hundred kilometres southeast of Prague. The Špilberk fortress holds one hill, the cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul holds another, and between them the old town reads as a quiet Central European capital. On the slope above the centre stands the white Villa Tugendhat, Mies van der Rohe's 1930 house, where the modern century begins.
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Brno is the second-largest city in the Czech Republic, with about 380,000 residents, set in southern Moravia roughly 200 kilometres southeast of Prague at the confluence of the Svratka and Svitava rivers. It is the historic capital of Moravia and the seat of the country's Constitutional and Supreme Courts. Founded as a market settlement in the eleventh century and chartered as a royal town in 1243 by King Wenceslaus I, the city anchors the South Moravian Region and sits about 90 kilometres north of Vienna and 130 kilometres southwest of Ostrava.
Two hills define the silhouette. Špilberk Castle, built in the mid-thirteenth century by King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia, holds the western hill and served as a Habsburg prison for two centuries. The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, rebuilt in neo-Gothic form between 1889 and 1909 on the foundations of an eleventh-century Romanesque church, crowns Petrov Hill to the south. The cathedral bells ring noon at eleven o'clock, a tradition tied to the 1645 Swedish siege under General Lennart Torstensson, when the defenders rang the hour early to lift the assault.
The old town is small and walkable, anchored by Náměstí Svobody, Liberty Square, and the cathedral on the hill above. Villa Tugendhat, the 1930 Mies van der Rohe house listed by UNESCO in 2001, sits a 25-minute walk or short tram ride north of the centre and requires advance ticket booking; visits are guided and limited to roughly 15 people per group. Brno-Tuřany Airport sits 7 kilometres southeast of the city. Direct trains reach Prague in about 2.5 hours and Vienna in about 1.5 hours.