— — the afternoon the armoured train came off its rails.
“Santa Clara sits on the flat green middle of Cuba, halfway between Havana and the eastern mountains. It is a university town with a long arcaded square, a noisy parque at dusk, and a quiet hill called Loma del Capiro that catches the last light. Most travellers come for one reason: this is where the Battle of Santa Clara closed the war in December 1958, and where Che Guevara's remains were brought home in 1997. The city carries that weight lightly, the way working cities do.
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Santa Clara is the capital of Villa Clara Province, near the geographic centre of Cuba, roughly 280 km east of Havana on the Carretera Central. The city was founded in 1689 by families who walked inland from coastal Remedios to escape pirate raids, and grew through tobacco, sugar, and the railway that bisects it. The Universidad Central Marta Abreu was established in 1948 and still gives the parque its student tempo. Population is roughly 240,000.
The defining event is the Battle of Santa Clara, 28-31 December 1958. A column led by Ernesto Che Guevara derailed an armoured government train carrying reinforcements and took the city in three days; Batista flew out on New Year's Eve. The wrecked cars sit where they came to rest at the Monumento al Tren Blindado on the eastern edge of town. Guevara's remains, recovered from Bolivia, were interred at the Plaza de la Revolución in 1997.
The Mausoleo Che Guevara and its museum open most days except Monday, free of charge, with bag check and no photography inside the crypt. The Tren Blindado monument is a short walk east across the Río Cubanicay. Loma del Capiro, a low hill north of the centre, gives the best view of the city at the end of the day and was itself a battle position. The Parque Vidal in the centre is the place to be at dusk.