— — two old towns climbing one hill, side by side.
“Zagreb sits where the plain of the Sava meets the wooded slope of Medvednica. The Upper Town and the Lower Town climb the hill together, one medieval and one nineteenth-century, joined by one of the shortest funiculars in the world. St Mark's tiled roof shows the city's old coat of arms. The Dolac market opens every morning above Ban Jelačić Square.
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Zagreb is the capital and largest city of Croatia, with about 770,000 residents in the city and roughly 1.1 million in the metropolitan area. The city sits inland in the country's north, on the southern slope of Mount Medvednica where the wooded foothills meet the plain of the Sava River. The medieval Upper Town, Gornji Grad, grew from two separate hilltop settlements that merged in the seventeenth century. The nineteenth-century Lower Town, Donji Grad, was laid out in a planned green-belt grid known as Lenuci's Horseshoe.
St Mark's Church in the Upper Town carries a tiled roof installed in 1880 that shows the medieval coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia on the left, and the older arms of the city of Zagreb on the right. The Cathedral of the Assumption, twice rebuilt after fires and once after the 1880 earthquake, lost the tip of its south spire in the magnitude 5.5 earthquake of March 22, 2020. Repair scaffolding has been part of the skyline since. The Lower Town's planned Lenuci's Horseshoe links eight green squares in a U around the centre.
The Zagreb Funicular has run between the Lower and Upper Towns since 1893. Its 66-metre track is among the shortest public-transit funiculars in the world, and the one-minute ride is part of the city's tram system. The Dolac open-air market opens every morning above Ban Jelačić Square; the red parasols are the city's unofficial logo. Most museums close on Mondays. Spring and early autumn are the kindest seasons; January and February bring fog and frost off the Sava.