— — a Roman palace the city kept living in.
“The old city of Split is a Roman palace people never moved out of. Diocletian built his retirement palace here around 305 AD; sixteen centuries later, laundry still hangs from windows cut into the original walls. Cafés open onto the peristyle. The cathedral was once the emperor's mausoleum. There are quiet corners along the Riva where the Adriatic comes right up to the limestone and nobody says much.
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Split is the second-largest city in Croatia and the cultural seat of Dalmatia, on a peninsula between the Mosor range and the Adriatic. The old town is built inside and around Diocletian's Palace, completed around 305 AD for the retiring Roman emperor. After the nearby Roman city of Salona fell in the seventh century, residents took shelter inside the palace walls and never left. The palace and historic core were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979. Ferries from the Riva connect the city to Hvar, Brač, and Vis.
The palace was built from white limestone quarried on Brač, the same island stone later shipped abroad for the White House and pieces of Diocletian's own residence in Rome. The peristyle, the central courtyard, retains its original columns; the cathedral bell tower, added in the thirteenth century, rises 57 metres above what was once the emperor's tomb. Two black granite sphinxes brought from Egypt around 297 AD still sit in the palace grounds. The stone has gone honey-coloured where centuries of hands have brushed it.
The old city is open at all hours; there is no gate to close. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius, the bell tower, and the substructures beneath the palace charge separate admissions, with combined tickets sold at the Peristyle. The shoulder seasons, May and September, hold the warm Adriatic light without the cruise crowds that pack July and August. Split airport sits about 25 kilometres west at Kaštela; ferries from the Riva run year-round to the islands of Hvar, Brač, and Vis, with extra sailings in summer.