— — the green island the sharks remember.
“Isla del Coco sits alone in the eastern Pacific, about 550 kilometres southwest of the Costa Rican mainland. No one lives there but the park rangers who rotate through. The island is steep, wet, and green, with waterfalls that drop straight off cliffs into the sea, and the surrounding water holds one of the largest known schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1997. Jacques Cousteau called it the most beautiful island in the world. Reaching it takes a 36-hour boat from Puntarenas, and only divers usually make the trip.
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Isla del Coco, the only island in the eastern tropical Pacific with a tropical rainforest, lies about 550 kilometres southwest of Cabo Blanco on Costa Rica's mainland. The island covers roughly 23.85 square kilometres and rises to 575 metres at Cerro Iglesias, its highest point. It has been a Costa Rican national park since 1978 and was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1997, expanded in 2002 to include 1,997 square kilometres of surrounding marine area. The island is uninhabited apart from a small rotating staff of park rangers. The American filmmaker Steven Spielberg used aerial footage of Cocos as the on-screen stand-in for the fictional Isla Nublar in Jurassic Park.
The waters around Isla del Coco hold one of the largest known aggregations of scalloped hammerhead sharks, in schools sometimes counted in the hundreds at cleaning stations on the seamounts. Galapagos sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and silky sharks share the column, along with manta rays, marbled rays, and pods of bottlenose dolphins. The two main anchorages, Chatham Bay on the northeast and Wafer Bay on the northwest, also serve as the only legal landing points. The dive sites at Bajo Alcyone, Manuelita, and Dirty Rock pull divers from across the world; Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who returned several times in the 1980s, called Cocos the most beautiful island in the world.
Access is by sea only. Liveaboard dive vessels depart Puntarenas on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica and run a roughly 36-hour crossing to the island, then anchor for seven to ten days of diving in Chatham Bay or Wafer Bay. Park rules forbid overnight landings, sport fishing within 22 kilometres, and any commercial activity ashore. Day landings are permitted at Chatham and Wafer beaches under ranger supervision, and a short trail leads to a waterfall behind Wafer. The park charges a daily entry fee of about 30 US dollars per diver, set by the Costa Rican Ministry of Environment.