— — a river that drains a country of grass.
“Most of the Orinoco's length runs through Venezuela, but the eastern third of Colombia drinks it. The river divides the two countries for roughly 1,200 kilometres, edging the Llanos — a tropical grassland the size of California. Pink river dolphins still surface in its slower channels. From Puerto Carreño the far bank is a flat green line that goes nowhere a road can reach.
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The Orinoco is South America's third-largest river by discharge, running about 2,140 kilometres from its source in the Sierra Parima on the Venezuela-Brazil border to its delta on the Atlantic. Roughly the eastern third belongs to Colombia, where it forms the border with Venezuela and drains the Llanos Orientales, the tropical grassland that covers about a quarter of the country. The Casiquiare canal, a natural waterway near the source, links the upper Orinoco basin to the Amazon's Río Negro.
The river runs clear, white, and black by tributary. The Río Inírida and Río Guaviare arrive black, stained by tannins from rainforest peat; the main stem carries Andean sediment and runs the colour of weak tea. Amazon river dolphins, called toninas locally, surface in the slower oxbows; they are pink-grey freshwater cetaceans unrelated to the ocean species. The river rises six to ten metres between the dry season and the September flood, drowning gallery forest along the banks for months at a time.
The Llanos along the Colombian Orinoco are flat to the horizon. The dry season runs December through April; the rest of the calendar the grasslands flood. Puerto Carreño, the capital of Vichada department at the confluence of the Meta and the Orinoco, is reached by a single road from Bogotá and a small airstrip. Temperatures stay near 30°C through the calendar. Capybara, caiman, and scarlet macaw are the common sightings; jaguar work the gallery forest along the river edge.