Three hills rise from the south bank of the Yangtze at Zhenjiang: Jinshan with its temple and pagoda, Beigushan with the Sweet Dew terrace, and Jiaoshan in the river itself. Below them barges work the channel where the Grand Canal meets the Yangtze, the same crossing that made the city a Tang dynasty river port. The air at the wharves carries a sour note from the vinegar workshops.