— the cold the wind carries down from Mongolia.
“A city of nearly four million on the rim where the North China Plain meets the Mongolian steppe. The 2022 Winter Olympics put the snow events on the ridges above town, at Chongli, but the older story is the Dajingmen gate, where caravans crossed the Wall on the tea-and-horse road for four centuries.
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A prefecture-level city in Hebei Province, about 180 kilometres north-west of Beijing, with a population near 4.2 million at the last census. The land climbs from the North China Plain toward the Mongolian Plateau; the Chongli district, in the mountains above town, held the Nordic and freestyle events of the 2022 Winter Olympics. The Dajingmen gate, completed in 1644, marks the point where Ming-era caravans crossed the Great Wall on the trade route north.
The air at Zhangjiakou runs dry and thin. The city sits near 720 metres; the Genting and Taiwoo ski areas at Chongli reach above 2,100 metres on the ridges. Winter daytime highs hold below freezing from late November through February, and the wind comes off the Mongolian Plateau without much in the way of a windbreak between. The dryness is what keeps the snow its texture, and what makes the cold read harder on the skin than the thermometer says.
Reached most easily from Beijing on the Jingzhang high-speed railway, which opened in late 2019 and covers the 174 kilometres in about fifty minutes. The line was built ahead of the 2022 Games and stops at Taizicheng for the snow venues at Chongli. Most visitors come in winter for the slopes; in summer the same ridges hold grasslands and the start of the route to Inner Mongolia. The Dajingmen gate and the old caravan quarter sit on the north side of the city.