— — the town the Long March ended in.
“Yan'an sits in a fold of the yellow-earth plateau, where the Yan River runs through a town of cave houses cut straight into the hillsides. From 1936 to 1948 it was the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Party. The pagoda on Treasure Pagoda Hill, built in the Tang dynasty, watches over a place still shaped by what arrived here in 1935.
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Yan'an is a prefecture-level city in northern Shaanxi province, set on the Loess Plateau where the Yan River meets the Yellow River basin. The wider prefecture covers roughly 37,000 square kilometres and holds a population near two million; the urban centre itself is much smaller. The landscape is the yellow loess, fine wind-blown silt that erodes into terraced ridges and steep gullies. Generations of residents have dug yaodong, cave dwellings, into the soft cliffs. The Tang-dynasty Treasure Pagoda, on the hill above the river, is the city's defining silhouette.
Yan'an's name in modern Chinese history is bound to the Long March. In October 1935, after a year of retreat across roughly 9,000 kilometres, the surviving forces of the Chinese Communist Party reached northern Shaanxi. From 1936 until March 1948, Yan'an was the party's base. Mao Zedong lived in yaodong cave houses at Yangjialing, Zaoyuan, and Wangjiaping, all preserved today as the Yan'an Revolutionary Memorial sites. The period shaped the political vocabulary of the People's Republic, and the city remains a centre of red tourism for visitors from across China.
The main sites cluster on the edges of town: Yangjialing, Zaoyuan, and Wangjiaping for the cave-dwelling complexes, and Treasure Pagoda Hill for the Tang pagoda and a long view across the river. The Yan'an Revolutionary Memorial Hall on Wanghuaping holds the period collection. Travellers usually reach the city by high-speed rail from Xi'an, about two and a half hours south, or by air through Yan'an Nanniwan Airport. Late spring and autumn are the easier seasons; winters on the plateau are dry and cold.