— — a desert that knows how to keep water.
“An oasis city set in one of the lowest depressions on earth, where the summer afternoons run past 40°C and the shade under a grape trellis is a kind of architecture. The fields are fed by karez, hand-dug underground channels that carry snowmelt from the Tian Shan without losing it to the sun. Above the green, the Flaming Mountains turn the colour of a banked coal. Outside town the wind moves over the ruins at Jiaohe and nothing answers back. from the studio
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Turpan sits in the Turpan Depression in eastern Xinjiang, roughly 150 kilometres southeast of Ürümqi. The basin contains Aydingkol Lake, whose surface lies about 154 metres below sea level, making it one of the lowest land points on earth. The oasis has been a Silk Road waypoint for two millennia, with the ruined cities of Jiaohe and Gaochang and the Buddhist cave complex at Bezeklik all within a short drive. Modern Turpan is reached by high-speed rail on the Lanzhou-Xinjiang line.
The basin is fed by karez, a network of gently sloping underground channels that carry meltwater from the Tian Shan to the oasis without losing it to evaporation. Turpan's system runs for more than 5,000 kilometres in total, dug and maintained by hand over centuries. The water surfaces in vineyards and melon fields and in the long shaded grape trellises that roof the village lanes of Grape Valley north of the city.
Summer in Turpan is the hottest sustained heat in China, regularly above 40°C, with the surface of the nearby Flaming Mountains recorded near 80°C. Grapes ripen in August and the seedless green Mantou varieties dry in open-walled brick lofts called chunche through September. Spring and late October are the windows that travellers prefer, when the basin cools and the light over Jiaohe softens at the end of the day.