— — a church that is only a front now, and still standing.
“All that remains of the Jesuit Church of the Mother of God, completed in 1640 and lost to fire in 1835: a stone facade five tiers tall, with a wide flight of sixty-six steps climbing to meet it. Carved into the upper tiers are bronze chrysanthemums, Chinese characters, and a Portuguese caravel — a record of the only Catholic baroque facade in East Asia, and of the city that made it.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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The Ruins of St. Paul's stand at the top of a stairway in the Santo António district of the Macau Peninsula. The surviving granite facade is the front of the Church of the Mother of God, completed in 1640 as part of the Jesuit College of São Paulo. A fire during a typhoon on 26 January 1835 destroyed the church, the college and most of the library, leaving only the facade and the crypt. It is the centrepiece of the Historic Centre of Macao, inscribed by UNESCO in 2005.
The facade rises in five tiers of carved granite and was finished between 1620 and 1627, largely by Japanese Christian craftsmen exiled after the Tokugawa persecutions. Its iconography mixes Catholic baroque with motifs the local masons knew: a bronze dove of the Holy Spirit on the top, a Chinese-style chrysanthemum bordering the third tier, a Portuguese caravel and a Chinese dragon on the fourth, and inscriptions in Latin alongside Chinese characters reading the same Christian message.
The site is reached by walking up Rua de São Paulo from Senado Square through the old commercial street of almond-cookie shops and pork-jerky vendors, then climbing the broad granite staircase of sixty-six steps. The facade and the crypt below it are open daily and free to enter; the crypt holds relics of Vietnamese and Japanese martyrs and a small museum of sacred art. The nearest landmarks are Monte Fort and the Macau Museum, immediately east at the top of the hill.