— — the grass the horses come down to in August.
“A high town on the Changtang grassland, roughly 4,500 metres above sea level, on the road and rail line that crosses the Tanggula Pass between Lhasa and Xining. For most of the year the wind moves the grass and nothing else. In August the herders ride in from across the plateau for the Nagqu Horse Race, and the empty country fills for a week.
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Nagqu, written Naqu in Chinese, is a prefecture-level city in the northern Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China, covering roughly 450,000 square kilometres of the Changtang plateau. The administrative seat sits at about 4,500 metres above sea level, making it one of the highest cities in the world. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway runs through the city, connecting Lhasa to Xining over the Tanggula Pass at 5,072 metres. The prefecture's pastoral population of around 500,000, mostly Tibetan, herds yak and sheep across the high steppe.
At 4,500 metres the air carries roughly 60 percent of the oxygen available at sea level. Annual mean temperature at the Nagqu meteorological station is about minus one degree Celsius, with winter lows reaching minus 35. The plateau receives roughly 400 millimetres of precipitation a year, most of it falling as summer hail or snow between June and September. Wind is the constant. Westerlies above 20 kilometres per hour are typical, and dust devils cross the grass on most clear afternoons.
The grassland cycle anchors the year. Snow holds the plateau from November through April; the grass greens in late May. The Nagqu Horse Racing Festival, held in early August since at least the seventeenth century, draws herders from across the Changtang for a week of racing, archery and tent-bazaar trade. By late September the herds are moved to winter pasture and the high passes begin to close. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway crosses the Tanggula Pass north of the city at 5,072 metres, the highest railway pass in the world.