— — water that remembers the road down from the snow.
“The old town sits at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in northwest Yunnan, where the Naxi people built a town of cobbled lanes and small canals fed from Black Dragon Pool. Visitors say the stones hold the morning light a long time after the sun has climbed the wall.
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The old town of Lijiang lies at about 2,400 metres in northwest Yunnan, at the base of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Naxi people settled here under the Mu chieftains beginning in the Song dynasty, and the lattice of cobbled lanes and small canals fed from Black Dragon Pool still follows that older plan. UNESCO inscribed the old town as a World Heritage Site in 1997. The town sits on the road from the Jinsha River valley up toward the Tibetan plateau.
The canals running through the old town are fed by springs at Black Dragon Pool, about a kilometre north of the central square. The pool sits in Jade Spring Park beneath the eastern face of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the water reaches the town through three branching channels that the Naxi divided so every household could draw from a clean source. The flow holds steady through the year; the colour turns greener after the summer monsoon and pales again in the dry winter.
The lanes are paved with Wubua stone, a dark vein-shot bluestone quarried locally that polishes underfoot over centuries. The Mu Palace, restored in the 1990s on its Ming-era footprint, anchors the southern quarter; Sifang Street holds the centre. Most buildings are two-storey timber-and-tile, the rear courts opening onto the canals. The Naxi Dongba script — the last living pictographic writing system — still appears on shop signs and lintels through the older lanes.