— — the river the city was built to cross.
“The city stretches forty kilometres along the Yellow River, hemmed in by yellow loess hills that close on both sides. It was a Silk Road waystation for centuries and is still the place travellers reach before the Hexi Corridor opens west. The river runs fast and brown through the middle of town, crossed by the iron bridge that has stood since 1909.
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Lanzhou is the capital of Gansu Province, set at about 1,520 metres in a narrow valley along the upper reaches of the Yellow River (Huang He), some 1,200 kilometres west of Xi'an. The metropolitan population is roughly four million. The city stretches for more than forty kilometres east to west, hemmed in by loess hills, and was for centuries a key station on the Silk Road before the Hexi Corridor opens toward the Gobi and the oases of Xinjiang. It is the only provincial capital the Yellow River runs through.
The Yellow River reaches Lanzhou after descending from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and carries the silt that gives it its name. Within the city the river is spanned by the Zhongshan Iron Bridge, completed in 1909 by a German engineering firm and the oldest bridge over the Yellow River. Riverside parks line both banks; on the south bank, the Waterwheel Garden holds reconstructed wooden waterwheels that turn against the current as they did when Ming-dynasty farmers irrigated the melons and pears that the city is still known for.
Lanzhou is reached most easily by high-speed rail — the line from Xi'an covers the distance in about three and a half hours — or by air via Zhongchuan International Airport, seventy kilometres north of the city. Most travellers arrive on the way to somewhere else: the Bingling Temple grottoes upriver, the Labrang Monastery south in Xiahe, or the Silk Road oases of the Hexi Corridor. The beef-noodle shops open at dawn and the queue forms before the first bowl is pulled; a bowl of niúròu miàn is the city's signature breakfast.