— — a city left behind at the pier.
“Hong Kong's third-largest island, reached in thirty minutes by ferry from Central. No cars. The path from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan runs four kilometres over a low ridge, past Hung Shing Yeh beach and the three white chimneys of the power station. The seafood restaurants on the Sok Kwu Wan waterfront still serve what came off the boats that morning.
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Lamma Island lies southwest of Hong Kong Island, the third-largest island in the territory at roughly 13.6 square kilometres. The population sits around 6,000, concentrated in two villages: Yung Shue Wan at the northern ferry pier and Sok Kwu Wan in the central bay. The island has no roads open to private cars; movement is on foot, by bicycle, or by village vehicle. Ferries from Central Pier 4 reach Yung Shue Wan in about thirty minutes and Sok Kwu Wan in about thirty-five.
The Family Trail runs about four kilometres between the two ferry piers, climbing a low ridge with the three white chimneys of the Lamma Power Station visible to the west for much of the walk. Hung Shing Yeh, the larger of the two main beaches, sits below the trail roughly twenty minutes south of Yung Shue Wan. Sok Kwu Wan's waterfront restaurants serve seafood brought in by the local fleet, with Rainbow Seafood among the longest-running of the family establishments.
Lamma has held a quieter, more bohemian character than the rest of Hong Kong since the 1970s, when artists, musicians, and expatriates began renting the village houses Yung Shue Wan had to spare. The reasons are practical: low buildings, no cars, the ferry as a buffer. Around the villages the hills are open scrub and tropical secondary forest, and the trails carry walkers most weekends. The two large power-station chimneys on the west coast are unmistakable; locals call them a landmark, not an eyesore.