— — the Song dynasty's quiet capital.
“The Northern Song dynasty's capital from 960 to 1127, when it was one of the largest cities in the world. The Iron Pagoda still stands on the north side, its glazed brown brick reading like cast iron from a distance. The Yellow River has buried the old city many times over; what is visible today layers above seven older Kaifengs.
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Kaifeng sits in Henan Province in north-central China, on the southern bank of the Yellow River, about 70 kilometres east of the provincial capital Zhengzhou. From 960 to 1127 it was the capital of the Northern Song dynasty under the name Bianjing, and by the late eleventh century its population is estimated to have reached around one million. Repeated floods of the Yellow River have buried the old city seven times; archaeologists describe the modern street grid as the top layer of a stratified site.
The Iron Pagoda (Tieta), completed in 1049 during the reign of Emperor Renzong, is the city's most photographed landmark: a 56-metre, thirteen-storey brick tower clad in glazed brown tiles that catch light like cast iron. Two kilometres south, the Pota or Bo Pagoda dates to 974 and is the oldest surviving structure in Kaifeng. Both pagodas mark the footprint of monasteries long lost to flood and war. The Dragon Pavilion (Longting), at the north end of the imperial axis, occupies the site of the Song imperial palace.
Kaifeng is bound to one painting more than any other: Zhang Zeduan's Along the River During the Qingming Festival, a twelfth-century handscroll showing the Bianjing of the late Northern Song along the Bian Canal. The Millennium City Park, opened in 1998 on the city's west side, is a 600-acre living recreation of that scroll, with costumed boatmen, water taxis, and Song-period buildings rebuilt from the painting. The Qingming festival each April is the year's busiest visit, with lantern displays after dusk.