— — the city the carved cliffs keep watch over.
“An old northern capital where the wind comes off the steppe. Datong holds the upper bend of the Sanggan river in Shanxi, near the Inner Mongolia line. West of the city the Yungang cliffs are cut with Buddhas; south of it the Heng Shan range carries the Hanging Temple above a gorge. The walls have been rebuilt; the dust is the same.
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Datong sits on the upper bend of the Sanggan River in northern Shanxi province, near the border with Inner Mongolia, on a high plain about 1,050 metres above sea level. It served as the capital of the Northern Wei dynasty from 398 to 494 CE, when the court ruled much of northern China before the move south to Luoyang. The prefecture today holds about 3.1 million people. Beijing lies about 350 kilometres to the southeast; the Mongolian steppe begins north of the rebuilt Ming-era walls.
The Yungang Grottoes, sixteen kilometres west of the city, were cut into a sandstone cliff beginning in 460 CE under the Northern Wei emperor Wencheng. The complex contains 252 caves and roughly 51,000 carved statues, the largest a seated Buddha 17 metres high. UNESCO listed the site in 2001. To the south the Heng Shan range carries the Hanging Temple of Xuankong Si, fastened to a cliff face above the Jinlong gorge, with origins in the late Northern Wei and reconstructions through the Ming and Qing.
The city sits between two climates. Winters are cold and dry, with strong winds off the Mongolian plateau; summers are short and warm. The annual coal-dust season, once heavy enough to coat the carvings at Yungang, has eased since the conservation programme of the 2010s diverted the rail spur and capped open-air stockpiles. The Lantern Festival in February draws crowds to the rebuilt drum tower in the old city; the grottoes are best visited in autumn, when the light is clear and the cliff face holds the colour.