— — a city the orange sandbar still holds.
“Changsha sits on the east bank of the Xiang in central Hunan, a city of roughly ten million with a long thin sandbar called Orange Isle running down the middle of the river. Yuelu Academy on the west bank has been teaching since the year 976. The Mawangdui tombs across town held a woman buried two thousand years ago who came out almost intact. The river runs north toward the Yangtze.
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Changsha is the capital of Hunan Province in south-central China, on the lower reaches of the Xiang River about 350 kilometres south of the Yangtze. The metropolitan area holds roughly ten million people across the east bank, the west bank, and the long midstream sandbar of Juzizhou, or Orange Isle. The Xiang flows north into Dongting Lake and from there to the Yangtze at Yueyang. Yuelu Mountain rises on the west bank to about 300 metres, its slopes covered in maple, bamboo, and camphor.
Yuelu Academy, founded in 976 during the Northern Song dynasty, sits at the foot of Yuelu Mountain and is one of the four great academies of imperial China. Its grey-tile halls and inscribed steles have taught Confucian and later Neo-Confucian scholars for over a thousand years. Across the river and east, the Mawangdui tombs, excavated in 1972, held the body of Lady Dai, wife of the Marquis of Dai, sealed in 168 BCE in four nested coffins and recovered with skin still soft. Her finds rest at the Hunan Museum.
The Xiang River runs roughly 856 kilometres from Guangxi to Dongting Lake, and at Changsha it widens around Juzizhou, a sandbar about five kilometres long. Mao Zedong, who studied at the Hunan First Normal School from 1913 to 1918, set his 1925 poem Changsha at the head of the isle, looking north across the water. A granite likeness of the young Mao, completed in 2009, now stands at that point, thirty-two metres high and visible from both banks.