— — a city the desert pushed all the way to the water.
“A port city pressed between the Pacific and a thousand-metre coastal cliff in northern Chile. Behind the old centre rises Cerro Dragón, a dune that climbs straight off the back streets and serves as one of the world's better-known launch sites for tandem paragliding. Wooden balconies along Calle Baquedano still carry the nitrate-boom money of the 1880s; the sea fog comes in most mornings and burns off by noon.
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Iquique is the capital of Chile's Tarapacá Region, a Pacific port of around 200,000 people on a narrow coastal terrace below the Atacama escarpment. The city grew in the late nineteenth century on the saltpetre trade and passed from Peru to Chile after the War of the Pacific in 1883. Today it is the country's principal northern free-trade port through the Zona Franca, and the gateway for visitors continuing inland to San Pedro de Atacama and the altiplano.
Calle Baquedano, the long pedestrian spine of the old centre, is lined with Georgian-pine balconies and porticoes built during the nitrate boom of the 1870s and 1880s. The Teatro Municipal, finished in 1890 in neoclassical style, and the former Stock Exchange survive from the same period. Inland from the city, the UNESCO-listed Humberstone and Santa Laura saltpetre works, abandoned in 1960, are open as a memorial site and lie about 45 kilometres east on Route 16.
Cerro Dragón rises directly behind the city to roughly 350 metres, a long urban dune that has become one of the most consistent paragliding sites in South America; tandem flights launch most afternoons when the thermal off the cliff steadies. Playa Cavancha, the in-town beach, runs the length of the modern centre and is busiest on summer weekends from December through February. The city is reached by Diego Aracena Airport, 41 kilometres south.