— — the sky the world forgot to put weather on.
“The driest non-polar desert on the planet, between the Pacific and the high Andes. San Pedro de Atacama is the village most travellers use as a base. The Valle de la Luna empties of colour at dusk and refills with stars an hour later. Some weather stations here have never recorded a drop of rain.
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Northern Chile, between the Pacific coast and the western slope of the Andes. The desert covers about 105,000 square kilometres across the Antofagasta and Atacama regions. The hub town, San Pedro de Atacama, sits at 2,408 metres, with the Licancabur volcano rising to 5,916 metres on the eastern horizon. The Salar de Atacama, south of the village, is the third-largest salt flat in the world. Most visits route through Calama airport, about ninety minutes west by road.
The Chajnantor plateau, at 5,058 metres, holds the Atacama Large Millimeter Array, sixty-six radio telescopes operated jointly by ESO, NRAO, and NAOJ since 2013. The site was chosen because the air above it is among the thinnest and driest on Earth, the same conditions that turn the night sky over San Pedro into one of the densest fields of visible stars on the planet. Further south, Cerro Paranal and Las Campanas hold additional observatories along the coastal range.
The Tatio geyser field sits at 4,320 metres, an hour and a half north of San Pedro by gravel road. The basin holds more than eighty active geysers and steams strongest at dawn, when the air temperature on the plateau can drop below minus ten degrees Celsius. The valleys west of the village, particularly the Valle de la Luna and the Valle de la Muerte, are walked at sunset, when the cliffs of compressed salt and clay take on the colour of banked embers.