— — slate roofs and bells above the river.
“The old town sits on a bluff above the St. Lawrence, walls and all — the only fortified city north of Mexico still ringed by its ramparts. Place Royale at the foot of the cliff, the Petit-Champlain stairs climbing back up, Château Frontenac watching from the rim. In February the snow on the copper roofs goes blue at dusk and nobody hurries.
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Old Quebec sits on Cap Diamant, a limestone promontory above the narrowing of the St. Lawrence River that gave the city its Algonquin name. Samuel de Champlain founded the settlement here in 1608, and the lower and upper towns developed on either side of the cliff that still divides them. UNESCO inscribed the historic district in 1985, citing the 4.6 kilometres of ramparts that ring the upper town. The Château Frontenac, completed in 1893 by Bruce Price for Canadian Pacific Railway, anchors the skyline above Dufferin Terrace.
The fortifications are the reason the historic district exists in the form it does. After the British took the city in 1759, they spent decades reinforcing the French walls, finishing the citadel on Cap Diamant in 1832 to a star-fort design adapted from Vauban. Four gates still open through the rampart: Porte Saint-Louis, Porte Saint-Jean, Porte Kent, and Porte Prescott. Parks Canada manages the walls and the citadel as a National Historic Site, and walkers can follow the full circuit on top of the ramparts.
Winter is when the old town looks most like itself. The Carnaval de Québec, held since 1955, runs through the first two weeks of February and turns the Plains of Abraham into an ice palace. Snow gathers on the copper roofs and along the Petit-Champlain stairs; the Château Frontenac lights its facade at dusk. Average February temperatures sit around minus eleven Celsius, and the river ice can pack into ridges below Cap Diamant. Cross-country skiers reach the citadel walls from the Plains in a few minutes.