— — the half-billion-year quiet of soft bodies in stone.
“A ridge of dark shale between Mount Field and Mount Wapta, in the Canadian Rockies above the little town of Field. The quarry where Charles Walcott split open the first slabs in 1909 still looks much as it did then. The fossils inside are the oldest soft-bodied animals anyone has found — a Cambrian sea, pressed into the mountain. The guided hike up is long and the wind off the ice never quite stops.
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The Burgess Shale sits on Fossil Ridge in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, between Mount Field and Mount Wapta, at about 2,300 metres. Charles Doolittle Walcott of the Smithsonian found the main quarry in 1909 while crossing a high pass above the town of Field. The shale preserves the soft-bodied life of a Cambrian sea roughly 508 million years old. Yoho was one of the first sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list for the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks in 1984.
What makes the shale extraordinary is the preservation. Most fossil beds keep only shells and bone; the Burgess kept the gills, the guts, the antennae of animals that had no hard parts. Specimens of Anomalocaris, Opabinia, Marrella and Hallucigenia have come out of these slabs since Walcott's first season. The Royal Ontario Museum and the Smithsonian hold the largest collections. The rock itself is a fine, dark mudstone laid down at the foot of a Cambrian reef and lifted later by the building of the Rockies.
The quarry is reached only on a guided hike, run jointly by Parks Canada and the Burgess Shale Geoscience Foundation out of Field, BC. The standard Walcott Quarry route is about 22 kilometres round trip with roughly 800 metres of climb, and runs from early July into mid-September. Permits are limited; the hike fills months ahead. Independent visitors are not allowed at the fossil beds, so the ridge stays as quiet as it was in Walcott's first summers.