— a city built where the rivers meet.
“The Cambodian capital, set at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap, and Bassac, the four-armed crossing the Khmer call Chaktomuk. Wat Phnom rises on the small hill that gave the city its name; the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda hold the riverfront south of it. French colonial shophouses line the streets behind. The Tonlé Sap reverses its flow each year in November.
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Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia, set at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap, and Bassac rivers, a four-armed crossing known in Khmer as Chaktomuk, 'four faces.' The city covers about 679 square kilometres on the west bank, with a metropolitan population of roughly 2.3 million. It was founded in the late fourteenth century around Wat Phnom, the temple-topped hill that gave the city its name. Phnom Penh became the royal capital permanently in 1865, replacing the older capital at Oudong forty kilometres to the north.
The Mekong flows past Phnom Penh after a 4,000-kilometre journey from the Tibetan Plateau, joined here by the Tonlé Sap from the great lake to the northwest and split immediately into the Bassac. The Tonlé Sap river reverses its flow each year, running upstream into the lake during the southwest monsoon between May and October, and back downstream into the Mekong from November onward. The reversal is marked by the Bon Om Touk water festival, drawing crowds along the riverfront for three days each November when the current turns.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda open daily from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., with a modest entrance fee for non-residents; shoulders and knees must be covered. The National Museum, next door in its terracotta-red pavilion, opens 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, in the former S-21 prison, opens through the afternoon and is reached by tuk-tuk from the riverfront in about fifteen minutes. The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek lie seventeen kilometres south of the city.