— — the dry-season morning before the harmattan turns the sky white.
“The capital of Burkina Faso, on a red-dust plateau where the Sahel meets the savannah. Every two years FESPACO fills the streets with film posters and visitors from across the continent. The rest of the year the city is bronze workshops, market stalls under tarpaulins, and the long evening light the dust softens.
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Ouagadougou sits on the central plateau of Burkina Faso at roughly 305 metres elevation, in the Sudano-Sahelian belt of West Africa. It is the country's political and cultural capital, home to about 2.5 million people, and the seat of the Mossi paramount ruler whose Moro-Naba palace still holds a short Friday-morning ceremony each week. The Grand Mosque, the Naba Koom rail station, and the bronze-casting quarter of Koulouba mark the older urban core. The Pan-African Film Festival, FESPACO, has been held in the city since 1969 and remains the largest of its kind on the continent.
The civic year turns on two festivals that move the city. FESPACO, the Pan-African Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou, occupies the city for a week every odd year in late February and has run since 1969. SIAO, the International Art and Craft Fair, fills the same showgrounds every even year and pulls bronze workers, weavers, and leather artisans from across West Africa. Between them, the calendar holds the Friday Moro-Naba ceremony at the royal court, a thread of continuity older than the colonial city laid over it.
The climate is Sudano-Sahelian: a long dry season from October through May, a short wet one from June through September, and the harmattan wind that blows down off the Sahara from late November to February. The harmattan carries fine red dust that hazes the sun and reaches as far as the Gulf of Guinea. Average annual rainfall hovers near 800 millimetres. The hottest weeks fall in March and April, when daytime highs in Ouagadougou regularly cross 40 degrees Celsius and the nights stay warm under a dusted sky.