— — a Portuguese hill town the tropics keep softening.
“A capital city built on an island in the Atlantic, north Brazil. The old centre climbs a low hill in tight grids of Portuguese townhouses, their faces covered in glazed azulejo tiles in blue, green, and faded rose. The tiles were shipped over as ballast in the 1700s and stayed. Salt air has been working on them for three hundred years, and the colour has settled into something the postcards never quite catch. — from the studio
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
São Luís is the capital of the state of Maranhão, in the northeast of Brazil, set on an island in the Bay of São Marcos. It is the only Brazilian state capital founded by the French, who built a small fort here in 1612 and named it for the boy-king Louis XIII. The Portuguese took it three years later, the Dutch held it briefly in the 1640s, and the Portuguese took it back. The historic centre, known locally as Praia Grande and Desterro, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997.
The old city holds the largest collection of Portuguese azulejo facades anywhere in the Americas — more than 3,500 buildings still wear their original tile fronts, mostly from the late 1700s and early 1800s. The tiles came across the Atlantic as ballast in returning sugar and cotton ships and were applied to the colonial townhouses to throw off the heat and the rain. The grid of the historic centre, laid out by the engineer Francisco Frias de Mesquita in 1615, is still legible street by street.
The summer festival of Bumba-meu-boi runs through June, with the official São João season opening on the 13th and the largest performances on the night of the 28th, the eve of São Pedro. Drums, costumed bois, and rival neighbourhood groups move through the historic centre until dawn. The tradition was added to UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019. The rest of the year the city is quieter, the rain comes hard between February and May, and the Atlantic light flattens by midday.