— a city the rivers made, and the bridges stitched together.
“Recife rests on the Capibaribe and Beberibe deltas where they meet the South Atlantic, the old colonial centre spread across three islands stitched by more than fifty bridges. Marco Zero square in Recife Antigo looks out toward the reefs that gave the city its name. North along Boa Viagem the high-rises crowd the beach; behind them, the hills of Olinda climb. The light is equatorial and the music is frevo.
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Recife is the capital of Pernambuco state and the cultural anchor of Brazil's northeast, set on the Atlantic coast at the confluence of the Capibaribe and Beberibe rivers. The 2022 census recorded a municipal population of around 1.49 million, with the metropolitan region near four million. The old centre, Recife Antigo, occupies three islands joined by more than fifty bridges to the mainland. The Portuguese founded the port in 1537; the Dutch West India Company, under Maurits van Nassau, controlled it from 1630 to 1654 and made it the capital of New Holland.
Recife's Carnaval centres on the Galo da Madrugada, the early-Friday parade through the old city that the Guinness Book has recognised since 1995 as the largest carnival bloco in the world, drawing more than two million on its peak morning. Frevo, the local dance of small umbrellas and quickstep, fills the streets from Marco Zero square through the Recife Antigo grid for five days each February or March. The neighbouring colonial town of Olinda runs its own parallel carnival on the hill above.
Recife means reef in Portuguese, for the line of sandstone offshore that calms the surf along the city's beaches. Boa Viagem, the southern beach district, runs for about seven kilometres along the Atlantic; bathers stay shoreward of the reef line, where the water is warm and shallow most of the year. The Capibaribe and Beberibe rivers drain the Pernambuco interior through the city, joined by mangrove channels that still come close to downtown along the Parque dos Manguezais on the southern bank.