— — the cool the city climbs to find.
“The imperial summer city above Rio. Pedro II came up here in the 1840s when the coast got too hot, and the air still does what it did then, dropping ten degrees the moment you crest the serra. German bakeries, palm-lined avenues, a cathedral the imperial family is buried in. The mountains keep the heat off.
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Petrópolis sits in the Serra dos Órgãos range of Rio de Janeiro state, about 68 km north of the city of Rio at roughly 810 metres above sea level. Founded in 1843 by Emperor Pedro II as the imperial summer residence, it was settled largely by German colonists from the Rhineland and Mosel regions. The city served as the seat of the Brazilian Empire each summer until 1889, and Pedro II, his wife Teresa Cristina, and Princess Isabel are interred at the Cathedral of São Pedro de Alcântara in the centre of town.
The pull of Petrópolis has always been temperature. Rio at sea level averages 27°C in summer; Petrópolis at 810 metres averages closer to 20°C, often dropping below 15°C overnight. The Serra do Mar escarpment forces moist Atlantic air upward, condensing it into the fine winter mist locals call neblina. That cool draft is why the Portuguese court summered here, why Santos Dumont kept a hillside chalet on the slope above town, and why Avenida Koeler still feels twenty degrees removed from the coast below.
The Museu Imperial, in Pedro II's former summer palace, opened to the public in 1943 and holds the crown jewels of the Brazilian Empire; visitors put on felt slippers to cross the parquet floors. The Cathedral of São Pedro de Alcântara, a neo-Gothic 1939 completion, contains the imperial mausoleum. A short walk from the palace, the Casa de Santos Dumont, the aviator's hillside home with the famous one-way staircase, is preserved as a museum. Tuesday through Sunday opening; the Imperial closes on Mondays.