— — a saucer set down on the headland.
“The city across the bay from Rio, looking back at Sugarloaf and Corcovado from its own beaches. Oscar Niemeyer's Contemporary Art Museum sits at the end of a curving ramp over the water, a white disc against the blue. Founded in 1573 and named for a Tupi word for hidden waters. The thirteen-kilometre Rio-Niterói bridge crosses the bay above the ferries. People here call themselves Niteroienses.
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Niterói faces Rio de Janeiro across Guanabara Bay, founded on 22 November 1573 by Araribóia, a Temiminó chief who allied with the Portuguese against the French. It served as state capital of Rio de Janeiro from 1834 until 1975, when the state merged with the federal city across the bay. The municipality now holds about 515,000 residents along the eastern shore, with the 13.3-kilometre Rio-Niterói Bridge connecting it to the metropolitan core. Bairros climb the granite hills behind the beaches: Icaraí, Santa Rosa, São Francisco.
The Niterói Contemporary Art Museum, MAC Niterói, opened in 1996 on a promontory above Boa Viagem beach. Oscar Niemeyer was 89 when he designed it with structural engineer Bruno Contarini. The building is a 50-metre-wide concrete disc lifted on a 9-metre stem above a circular reflecting pool, reached by a long red ramp curving up from the parking court. Niemeyer called it 'a flower over the rocks'. The interior gallery rings the perimeter behind a continuous band of slanted windows that frame Guanabara Bay, Sugarloaf, and the open sea.
Guanabara Bay covers about 412 square kilometres and once held one of the richest estuarine ecosystems in the Atlantic. Pollution from Rio's metropolitan run-off has cut its mangroves heavily, but the eastern Niterói shore remains the cleaner side, with swimmable ocean beaches at Itacoatiara and Camboinhas facing open water rather than the bay. The Charitas-Praça XV ferry has crossed the bay since 1835, the oldest scheduled passenger run in Brazil. Boats still leave every twenty minutes from the Barcas terminal, twenty minutes to the centre of Rio.