— — a Brazilian town that learned to speak Japanese.
“A small city in the Alto Tietê, about 50 km east of São Paulo, with a population near 450,000. Founded in 1611, it became home to one of the largest Japanese-Brazilian communities in the country in the twentieth century, and most of Brazil's persimmons still come from its orchards. Autumn brings the Akimatsuri festival and the smell of grilled food in the streets near the centre.
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Mogi das Cruzes was elevated to município on 1 September 1611 and sits in the upper Tietê valley about 50 km east of São Paulo's city centre. The 2022 census recorded around 450,000 residents, making it the largest city in the Alto Tietê region. The neighbouring Serra do Itapeti rises to roughly 1,150 m to the north and shapes the local climate, holding morning fog over the agricultural belt south of the highway. The Igreja Matriz de Santana, in the historic centre, dates in part to the seventeenth century.
The year in Mogi turns on two festivals. In April, the Akimatsuri (Festa do Caqui) marks the persimmon harvest with taiko drums, koto, mochi-pounding, and a parade through the Japanese district. In May, the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo, a Catholic feast that has run almost without interruption since the seventeenth century, fills the centre with banners, brass bands, and emperor and empress costumes. Local orchid growers also hold an exposition each spring. The two traditions — Iberian Catholic and Issei Japanese — sit on the calendar without competing for it.
Mogi is reachable from São Paulo by CPTM Line 11 (Coral) in about an hour from Brás station, or by Rodovia Ayrton Senna in around forty-five minutes off-peak. The Memorial do Imigrante Japonês in the city centre, established in 1958, traces the post-1908 arrival of Japanese families to the region's farms. The Mercado Municipal is the practical centre of the persimmon and orchid trade. October through April is rainy; the dry winter months between May and September are easier on the open-air festivals.