— — a city the British planted, that the coffee grew.
“A planned city in northern Paraná, laid out in 1934 by a British land company. The name is a small joke: *Pequena Londres*, Little London. The coffee boom built it; soybeans kept it. A modernist concrete cathedral sits at the centre, conical and austere. Lago Igapó loops through the middle of town, where the joggers go in the late afternoon.
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Londrina is the second-largest city in the Brazilian state of Paraná, in the country's south, with a population of roughly 580,000. It sits on the historical coffee frontier, the *norte do Paraná*, opened to European-style agriculture in the 1930s. The city was founded on 10 December 1934 by the Companhia de Terras Norte do Paraná, a land company with British capital that had taken over from the earlier Paraná Plantations Ltd. The name was the company's joke: *Londrina*, the little London. The Universidade Estadual de Londrina was founded in 1970 and anchors the city's eastern campus.
The first decades of Londrina were coffee. Paraná was Brazil's largest coffee-producing state through the 1950s and 1960s, and Londrina was its commercial centre. Severe frosts in 1975, and again in the early 1980s, wiped out much of the regional crop, and the farmland shifted to soybeans, maize, and wheat. The city itself kept growing through agribusiness and a mix of immigration waves from southern Europe, Japan, and the Brazilian northeast. The Festival de Música de Londrina, founded in 1980, runs in July and is one of the larger classical music festivals in the country.
The Catedral Metropolitana Sagrado Coração de Jesus, finished in 1972, replaced an earlier wooden church on the same site. Its design is by Prelvitz, Magalhães, and Brombilla: a conical concrete shell, sixty-five metres high, with a slim cross at the apex. The interior is a single room with no internal columns, set with vertical stained-glass slots that filter the southern light. It is one of the most distinctive modernist Catholic churches in Brazil and sits at the geographic centre of the old city grid, on Praça Rui Barbosa.