— — a city the coffee road built.
“An inland city about a hundred kilometres northwest of São Paulo, built on coffee money in the nineteenth century and turned into a research town in the twentieth. The Catedral Metropolitana stands at the centre, the lake at Parque Portugal holds the weekends, and Unicamp keeps the place young. The brick of the old estates still shows where the wealth came from.
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Campinas sits in the interior of São Paulo state, about 100 kilometres northwest of the capital, at an elevation of roughly 685 metres. The municipality holds a population over 1.2 million and anchors a metropolitan region of more than three million. Founded in 1774 as a stop on the road to the gold of Goiás, the city became a centre of coffee wealth in the nineteenth century and, after coffee, the home of the Universidade Estadual de Campinas and a cluster of national research institutes. The Catedral Metropolitana sits at the historic centre.
The Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora da Conceição, begun in 1807 and built over decades from jacarandá wood and local stone, anchors the calendar. The patron saint feast falls on the eighth of December and fills the central square. Carnival is smaller than in Rio but the bloco parades through the historic centre. The Estação Cultura, the city's old railway station from 1872, hosts the year's biggest cultural events. Coffee harvest still shapes the rural calendar of the surrounding municipalities even as the metropolitan economy has moved on.
Viracopos International Airport lies about 15 kilometres south of the centre and handles much of São Paulo state's air cargo. From the city of São Paulo, the Rodovia dos Bandeirantes runs to Campinas in roughly an hour by car when traffic allows. Lagoa do Taquaral, the lake inside Parque Portugal, draws families on weekends; the Bosque dos Jequitibás holds the city's older trees and a small zoo. Unicamp's campus on the western edge is open to walk through, and the bookshops near the central market keep long hours.