— — a port the river has been carrying for four hundred years.
“A port city of more than a million at the mouth of the Amazon in the state of Pará, founded by the Portuguese in 1616 to hold the river. Mango trees line the avenues, planted so thickly the canopy meets overhead. The Ver-o-Peso market opens at dawn on the riverside, selling river fish, açaí, tucupi, and the daily catch of the floodplain. The rain comes every afternoon. The colour comes from everywhere.
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Belém is the capital of the state of Pará, in northern Brazil, sitting on the southern channel of the lower Amazon about 100 kilometres from the open Atlantic. The metropolitan population is roughly 2.4 million, with the city proper near 1.3 million. The Portuguese founded the settlement as Santa Maria de Belém do Grão-Pará in January 1616 to defend the river mouth. The climate is equatorial: temperatures hover near 27°C in every month, with afternoon rain almost every day.
The Amazon empties into the Atlantic through the Belém channel and the Pará channel, with the island of Marajó, roughly the size of Switzerland, between them. The tide reaches the city, lifting and lowering the river by about three metres each cycle. Açaí, tucupi, fish, and timber arrive at Belém's docks by river from across the basin. The Ver-o-Peso market on the riverfront has traded since the 1620s and is among the largest open-air markets in Latin America.
The city's calendar turns on the Círio de Nazaré, the procession of Our Lady of Nazareth, held the second Sunday of October since 1793. Roughly two million pilgrims walk the four-kilometre route from the Cathedral of Sé to the Basilica Santuário de Nazaré, making it one of the largest Catholic processions in the world. The rest of the year runs on the rain: the wetter half from December through May, the drier half June through November, the heat constant.