— — a city that remembers everything.
“A city in a long narrow valley with hills on three sides. The Ottoman quarter and the Austro-Hungarian quarter meet at a line you can still see on the pavement. The Miljacka runs through the middle, crossed by the Latin Bridge where the twentieth century turned in 1914. The call to prayer carries across the slate roofs at dusk; nearby, the bells of the cathedral answer it.
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Sarajevo sits at roughly 500 metres above sea level in a tight east-west valley of the Dinaric Alps, threaded by the Miljacka River. It is the political and cultural capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a city population of about 275,000 and a metropolitan area near 410,000. The hills around the city, Trebević to the south and Igman and Bjelašnica to the southwest, held Olympic venues in 1984 and Bosnian Serb artillery positions during the 1992-1996 siege. The old town, Baščaršija, has been the commercial heart since 1462.
Two architectural worlds meet along Ferhadija Street, marked on the pavement by a brass line labelled 'Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures.' To the east, Baščaršija holds Ottoman-era stone: the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque from 1531, the Morića Han caravanserai, the small shops of the coppersmiths along Kazandžiluk. To the west, the Austro-Hungarian quarter holds the neo-Moorish City Hall, opened in 1896, burned in August 1992 with the National Library inside, and restored in 2014. Yugoslav-era residential blocks rise on the slopes above both quarters.
The city's two recent turning points sit a long human lifetime apart. In June 1914 Gavrilo Princip shot Archduke Franz Ferdinand from the corner by the Latin Bridge, the spark of the First World War. In February 1984 the city hosted the Winter Olympics; bobsled tracks still curve through the forest on Trebević. From April 1992 to February 1996, Sarajevo endured the longest siege of a capital in modern warfare, with about 11,500 residents killed. Sarajevo Roses, red-resin scars in the pavement, mark mortar strikes that took civilian lives.