— — a working city that kept its stairs and its sugar.
“A Walloon city on the Meuse, between Brussels and Aachen, with a long memory of coal and steel and prince-bishops. On Sunday mornings the Batte market runs the length of the river quay, the longest open-air market in Belgium. Up the hill above the old town, the Montagne de Bueren climbs four hundred and something steps in one straight line. The waffles here have pearl sugar baked into the dough, and the dough is heavier than people expect. from the studio
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Liège sits on a bend of the Meuse in eastern Belgium, in the French-speaking region of Wallonia, roughly thirty kilometres west of the German border and a hundred kilometres east of Brussels. The city of about two hundred thousand was the seat of the Prince-Bishopric of Liège for nearly eight hundred years until the French Revolution dissolved it in 1795. The river splits the centre around the Outremeuse island, and the steep left bank rises to the Citadel above the medieval core. Coal, steel, and arms shaped the nineteenth and twentieth centuries here; the post-industrial city now leans on its university, its hospitals, and the Liège-Guillemins station designed by Santiago Calatrava.
The Montagne de Bueren is the city's signature climb: three hundred and seventy-four stone steps rising in a single straight line from the Hors-Château up to the old Citadel walls. It was built in 1881 so that soldiers from the citadel garrison could reach the lower town without cutting through the red-light district. The steps are flanked by terraced gardens that have been replanted as a public park. From the top the slate rooftops of the old town fall away to the Meuse, and the cooling towers of the Tihange nuclear plant sit on the horizon downriver to the southwest.
The Batte market runs every Sunday morning along the Quai de la Batte on the right bank of the Meuse, from roughly eight to two-thirty. It is the oldest and longest open-air market in Belgium, stretching about two kilometres along the quay with produce, cheese, flowers, hot food, and live poultry. The other thing to eat here is the gaufre de Liège, the brioche-dough waffle with chunks of pearl sugar that caramelise on the iron. Une Gaufrette Saperlipopette in the centre is one of the addresses locals send visitors to. Trains from Brussels reach Liège-Guillemins in under an hour.