— — a medieval city that kept its working river.
“A Flemish city of guild houses and stepped gables along the Graslei quay, where the Lys and the Scheldt come together. Ghent kept its medieval bones better than most of Belgium: the castle of the counts still sits in the centre of town, and Van Eyck's altarpiece still lives in St Bavo's Cathedral. The river goes through the heart of it, and barges still tie up where they did seven centuries ago.
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Ghent is the capital of East Flanders, in north-western Belgium, where the rivers Lys and Scheldt come together. The city holds about 265,000 people and is the third-largest of Belgium, after Antwerp and Brussels. It grew rich on the cloth trade between the 12th and 14th centuries, and at its peak it was the second-largest city north of the Alps after Paris. The historic centre sits along the Graslei and Korenlei quays.
Three buildings carry the centre. Gravensteen, the Castle of the Counts, was rebuilt in 1180 by Philip of Alsace on the model of a Crusader fort. St Bavo's Cathedral, finished in the 16th century, houses the Van Eyck brothers' Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, completed 1432 and one of the most important paintings in Western art. The Belfry, 91 metres tall and finished 1380, holds the city bells and carries a UNESCO World Heritage listing.
The Lys and the Scheldt have done the work of the city for a thousand years. Wool came in by water, finished cloth went out the same way, and the long stone quays of the Graslei and Korenlei were built to load and unload. The rivers are still working today; small barges, tour boats, and the occasional cargo lighter pass through, and you can walk a continuous path from Gravensteen down to the harbour.