— — two castles on one hill, watching the river bend.
“A river city in western Belarus where the Neman bends and two castles share a single hill. The Old Castle keeps the bones of a fourteenth-century fortress; the New Castle, eighteenth-century baroque, sits a few steps away. Down in the streets the Catholic, Orthodox, and Lutheran towers stand within easy view of each other, quietly.
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Hrodna sits on the right bank of the Neman River in western Belarus, about twenty kilometres from the Polish border and a hundred and fifty from Vilnius. The old town climbs a bluff above the water, where the Old Castle (Stary Zamak) and the New Castle face each other across a single courtyard. The city was a residence of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and one of the twin capitals of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Today it holds roughly 360,000 people.
Two castles share the bluff. The Old Castle was rebuilt in stone by Stephen Báthory in the 1580s on the footprint of a fourteenth-century fortress raised by Vytautas the Great. Beside it the New Castle, a baroque royal residence finished in 1751, hosted the last sessions of the Polish-Lithuanian Sejm. Further along the bank the Kalozha Church, built before 1183, is one of the few surviving examples of pre-Mongol Black Ruthenian architecture, its walls patterned with embedded majolica crosses.
The old town is walkable in an afternoon. From the Soviet Square the route climbs past the Farny Catholic Cathedral, whose interior carries one of the oldest functioning baroque pipe organs in Europe, then crosses the bridge between the two castles. The riverside path below leads west to Kalozha. Hrodna sits in a designated visa-free tourist zone that allows short stays for many nationalities without a Belarusian visa, entered through Hrodna airport or the rail and road crossings from Poland and Lithuania.