— the city that wakes before the river.
“The capital of Bangladesh, set on the slow brown bend of the Buriganga. Old Dhaka holds its narrow lanes the way a hand cups water: Mughal walls at Lalbagh, the pink river-front of Ahsan Manzil, the painted rickshaws moving in their thousands before first prayer. The light here is humid and gold, and nothing in the city is ever quite still.
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Dhaka is the capital of Bangladesh and the country's largest city, set on the north bank of the Buriganga River in the Ganges Delta. The metropolitan area holds roughly 22 million people, among the densest urban regions on earth. The historic core, Old Dhaka, traces to the 17th-century Mughal settlement of Jahangirnagar; the city has been a regional capital under the Mughals, the British, Pakistan, and independent Bangladesh since 1971. The climate is humid subtropical with a long monsoon from June through September.
Two Mughal-era buildings anchor the old city. Lalbagh Fort, begun in 1678 by Prince Muhammad Azam Shah and left unfinished, holds the tomb of Pari Bibi beneath a flat dome of black basalt and white marble. Downstream, Ahsan Manzil, the Pink Palace, was built in the 1870s by Nawab Abdul Ghani as the residence of the Dhaka Nawab family and now serves as a national museum on the Buriganga waterfront. Both are protected sites under the Department of Archaeology of Bangladesh.
The city is reached through Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport, about 17 kilometres north of the centre. Old Dhaka is most easily walked at dawn before the rickshaw traffic thickens; the Star Mosque on Armanitola Road and the river terminal at Sadarghat sit within a kilometre of each other. Sadarghat is the busiest inland port in the country, with launch ferries leaving south down the Buriganga toward the delta districts. The cooler months, November to February, are the practical season for a visit.