— a city that keeps its poets close.
“Azerbaijan's second city, set on the Ganja River where it slides down from the Lesser Caucasus. The old town keeps Nizami's mausoleum, the Javad Khan square, and a 17th-century brick mosque all within walking distance. Travellers who pass through tend to stay a day longer than they planned.
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Ganja sits about 370 km west of Baku in the foothills of the Lesser Caucasus, at roughly 400 metres elevation. It is Azerbaijan's second-largest city by population, with around 335,000 residents, and has been continuously settled since at least the 5th century. The medieval town was the seat of the Ganja Khanate and the birthplace of the Persian-language poet Nizami Ganjavi (1141 to 1209). Today the city is reached by rail from Baku and Tbilisi, and by the M2 highway across the Kura plain.
The Imamzadeh complex on the city's western edge dates in its earliest layer to the 8th century, with the cobalt-domed mausoleum rebuilt under the Safavids in the 17th century. Nearby stands the 1606 Shah Abbas Mosque, designed by Shaykh Bahai for Shah Abbas I, its squat brick form set around a quiet courtyard. The Bottle House, built between 1966 and 1967 from some 50,000 glass bottles by Ibrahim Jafarov as a memorial to his missing brother, is the city's other landmark.
The city is reached by train from Baku in about six hours, or by domestic flight to Ganja International Airport. The historic core around Javad Khan Street is walkable; most monuments cluster within a kilometre of the Shah Abbas Mosque. Lake Goygol, a turquoise alpine lake formed by a 1139 earthquake that dammed the Aghsu River, lies about 35 km south by road at 1,556 metres and remains the region's most-visited landscape.