— the colour the Karwendel limestone gives back to the water.
“The Isar begins in the Hinterautal, a long limestone valley deep in the Karwendel Alps of Tyrol, and runs roughly twenty-two kilometers in Austria before crossing into Bavaria at Scharnitz. In its upper reach the water carries the milky turquoise of dissolved dolomite. The hiking trail that follows the bed is one of the quietest in the eastern Alps.
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The Isar rises in the Hinterautal valley of the Karwendel range in Tyrol, at roughly 1,160 meters elevation, and flows northeast for about twenty-two kilometers inside Austria before entering Bavaria near the village of Scharnitz. The full river runs 295 kilometers in total, ending as a tributary of the Danube north of Munich. The Austrian headwaters lie inside Naturpark Karwendel, the largest nature park in the country, where motor traffic is restricted and the upper bed is reachable only on foot or by mountain bicycle.
The upper Isar reads turquoise for the same reason Sorapis does. Fine particles of dolomitic limestone, ground by alpine erosion and held in suspension, scatter the shorter wavelengths of sunlight back to the eye. The intensity peaks in late spring and early summer, when meltwater volume is highest and the suspended load is fresh. By late autumn the bed runs clear and the colour fades toward green and grey, the same cycle that paints most glacier-fed rivers of the eastern Alps.
The Hinterautal sees almost no road traffic. The valley road from Scharnitz to the Kastenalm hut runs about thirteen kilometers and is closed to private cars, so the loudest sound most days is the river itself working through the gravel. Brown trout hold in the deeper pools. Chamois cross the slope above the path. The Karwendel rangers count fewer than a hundred summer walkers on most weekdays, even in July. Local Tyroleans send friends here who already think they've seen the Alps.