— — the tower the city paid Napoleon to spare.
“Austria's second city, on a green bend of the Mur in southern Styria. The Schlossberg rises straight from the old town, its clock tower still keeping the wrong time on purpose, the hour hand long, the minute hand short, the way it has since the 1560s. Below, the red-tiled roofs run down to the river. A coffee house on Hauptplatz fills early.
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Graz is the capital of Styria and Austria's second-largest city, with about 290,000 residents on the Mur in the country's southeast. The old town joined the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1999; Schloss Eggenberg, the seventeenth-century palace on the western edge, was added in 2010. The city sits at about 353 metres above sea level, sheltered between the Eastern Alps and the Pannonian Basin, which gives it warm dry summers and the longest growing season in Austria. The Mur runs through the centre, north to south.
The Schlossberg, a wooded dolomite knoll about 123 metres above the river, carried a fortress that withstood every Ottoman siege. Napoleon's forces razed it in 1809 after the Treaty of Schönbrunn, except the Uhrturm and the bell tower, which the citizens of Graz ransomed for 2,987 and 87 gulden respectively. The Uhrturm dates to the 1560s and still shows the long hand for the hour, the short for the minute, the way it did when only the hour mattered. Red roofs run downhill from its foot.
The Schlossbergbahn funicular has run since 1894, climbing the south face from Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Kai in under two minutes. The Kriegssteig stair, 260 steps cut in 1918 by Russian prisoners of war, offers the walking route up. The old town is small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes, and trams ring the inner core. Schloss Eggenberg, four kilometres west, opens its state rooms from April to October. The Kunsthaus Graz, the bulbous 2003 Friendly Alien by Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, sits on the west bank of the Mur.