— — red sand running in long parallel lines.
“A great sweep of red sand in central Australia, west of the Birdsville Track, where the dunes run north-northwest in parallel lines for hundreds of kilometres. The country is held by the Wangkangurru people; the eastern edge meets the Diamantina at Birdsville, the western at the Witjira springs. Travellers cross it in convoys, in winter, with two spare tyres and the radio on.
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The Simpson Desert covers roughly 176,500 square kilometres across the corner of the Northern Territory, South Australia, and Queensland, making it the fourth-largest desert in Australia. Its defining feature is around 1,100 parallel sand dunes running north-northwest to south-southeast, some unbroken for over 200 kilometres, the longest such dunes on Earth. The country is protected within Munga-Thirri–Simpson Desert National Park and Witjira National Park; the traditional custodians are the Wangkangurru and Lower Southern Arrernte peoples.
The desert holds a quiet that registers as absence: no traffic, no aircraft track, no streetlight glow at night. Annual rainfall averages under 150 millimetres, and surface water is rare outside the Dalhousie Springs at the western edge, where mound springs from the Great Artesian Basin sustain endemic desert fish. Dingoes, perentie monitors, and the kowari live here; cattle do not. Convoys crossing east-to-west sleep beneath one of the darkest night skies on the continent.
The desert is crossed in the cool months, typically May through September, when daytime highs sit near 25°C and the tracks are passable. Most travellers run the French Line or the WAA Line east-to-west, from Mount Dare in South Australia to Birdsville in Queensland, climbing Big Red, a 40-metre dune, on the final day. The crossing requires two four-wheel-drive vehicles in convoy, a UHF radio, a sand flag, and permits from the relevant national parks.