— — the brown water that built the pampas.
“The second-longest river in South America, running roughly 4,880 kilometres from southern Brazil through Paraguay and Argentina before meeting the Uruguay at the Río de la Plata. Through Argentina it widens into a slow ochre flood, braided with sandbars and willow islands. Rosario, Santa Fe, and Paraná sit on its banks, and the great delta breaks apart north of Buenos Aires. from the studio
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The Paraná rises on the Brazilian plateau and runs roughly 4,880 kilometres south, draining a basin of about 2.6 million square kilometres across Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina before joining the Uruguay River to form the Río de la Plata. By volume it is the second-largest river system in South America after the Amazon. In Argentina it threads through Misiones, Corrientes, Entre Ríos, Santa Fe, and Buenos Aires provinces, and the riverports of Rosario and Santa Fe move much of the country's grain harvest out to the Atlantic.
The river carries a heavy sediment load picked up across the Paraguayan and Brazilian highlands, which gives it the slow ochre colour visible from the bluffs at Rosario. Below Diamante the channel breaks apart into the Paraná Delta, a 14,000-square-kilometre maze of islands, sloughs, and reed beds running 320 kilometres to the Río de la Plata. It is one of the world's only inland deltas of this scale, home to capybaras, marsh deer, yacarés, and around 200 bird species. Severe low-water periods in 2020 and 2021 exposed sandbars not seen in seventy years.
The Paraná is best met from one of its river-cities. Rosario's Costanera promenade runs for kilometres along the high south bank, with launches to the island beaches at Banco de la Florida. The smaller city of Paraná, across the river in Entre Ríos, keeps a more wooded waterfront and the Parque Urquiza overlook. Tigre, an hour north of Buenos Aires by train, is the southern gateway to the delta, where wooden launches carry passengers up the side channels to island lodges and old rowing clubs.