— — the green that opens onto the sea.
“The Angolan exclave on the Atlantic, north of the Congo River and held apart from the rest of the country by a strip of the DRC. Behind the harbour the Mayombe rainforest climbs into the hills; in front, the long beach and the oil rigs offshore. Portuguese spoken in town. Fish on the grill at the market every evening.
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Cabinda is a province of Angola separated from the rest of the country by a narrow strip of the Democratic Republic of the Congo that runs to the sea. Population is roughly 700,000. The provincial capital, also called Cabinda, sits on the Atlantic about 60 kilometres north of the mouth of the Congo River. Portuguese is the official language; Ibinda, Kikongo, and Lingala are widely spoken. The Mayombe Forest, an Atlantic Equatorial rainforest, covers the interior and forms one of the densest remaining blocks of west-central African rainforest.
The Atlantic edge of Cabinda is industrial and human at the same time. Offshore platforms anchor the country's oil economy. Onshore the long beaches outside the capital, Praia de Tchizo among them, hold local life on weekends. The Cabinda Bay is a working harbour, fishing boats and cargo together. The water is warm through the year and the swell mild compared with the southern Angolan coast. At dusk the rigs light up offshore like a low constellation while the town beaches go quiet.
Inland the climate turns thick and green. The Mayombe Forest is humid, mid-twenties Celsius almost every day, with two rainy seasons that bracket a short dry stretch from June to September. Forest elephants, mandrills, and lowland gorillas still range the deeper blocks. The Mayombe National Park, gazetted in 2013, covers around 1,930 square kilometres of this forest. From the high points above Cabinda city the canopy reads as one green roof falling away to the Atlantic.