— — the white city steps down to the sea.
“Algiers stacks white against the bay in tiers, a colonial seafront below and the old Casbah climbing the hill behind it. The light off the Mediterranean catches the lime-washed walls until late afternoon. The bay curves wide enough that ferries from Marseille still arrive the old way, by sea, into the same harbour the Ottomans fortified.
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Algiers is the capital of Algeria and its largest city, set on a wide bay along the Mediterranean's southern shore. The old city, the Casbah, rises from the port up a steep limestone hillside; the French-built lower town stretches along the seafront below it. The metropolitan area holds roughly 3.5 million people, making it the largest in the Maghreb after Casablanca. The Casbah was inscribed by UNESCO in 1992 for its layered Ottoman and pre-Ottoman urban fabric, narrow stepped lanes still in daily use.
The Casbah is the historic medina, a triangle of houses and stepped alleys covering roughly 105 acres above the harbour. Inside it stand Ottoman palaces, the Ketchaoua Mosque rebuilt under the Dey in 1794, and the small dar courtyard-houses that still define the quarter's domestic architecture. The walls climb the hill in rough lime-washed tiers, which is why nineteenth-century French writers called the city Alger la Blanche, Algiers the White. UNESCO listed the quarter as a World Heritage site in 1992.
The whiteness is the first thing every traveller has noted since the Ottomans. Lime wash over masonry, then sun off the bay, then the hill turned so the morning light hits the seafront and the afternoon light climbs the Casbah. The French novelist Albert Camus, who grew up in Belcourt below the old city, wrote about the particular Algiers afternoon in his essays of the 1930s. The wash is renewed by residents each year before summer, a quiet civic practice.