— — the blue mosque the doves come back to.
“Northern Afghanistan, on the wide Balkh plain that opens toward the Amu Darya. A city built around the Shrine of Hazrat Ali — a tiled mosque the colour of summer sky, ringed by white doves. The new year arrives here with red tulips on the hillsides and a forty-day festival called Gul-i-Surkh.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Mazar-i-Sharif is the capital of Balkh Province in northern Afghanistan and the country's fourth-largest city, with a population of roughly 500,000. It sits on the Balkh plain at about 357 metres elevation, between the Hindu Kush mountains to the south and the Amu Darya river to the north along the Uzbek border. The name means "Tomb of the Exalted" and refers to the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, around which the city grew. Most residents are Tajik, Uzbek, Hazara, and Pashtun; Dari and Uzbek are the everyday languages.
The city's calendar turns on Nowruz, the Persian new year, on March 21. The Gul-i-Surkh festival, or Festival of the Red Tulip, runs the forty days that follow, named for the tulips that bloom on the surrounding plain. At the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, a ceremonial standard called the Janda is raised on the first day and lowered forty days later. Tens of thousands of pilgrims travel from across the country, though public observances have been restricted under the Taliban administration since 2021.
The Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also called the Blue Mosque, is the city's centre. The present structure dates principally to the 15th century under the Timurid ruler Sultan Husayn Bayqara, with later restorations. Its walls and domes are faced with cut tile mosaic in turquoise, cobalt, white, and gold, and the courtyard is famous for the flocks of white pigeons that gather there. Shia and Sunni traditions both venerate Ali ibn Abi Talib as buried here, though scholarship generally locates his grave at Najaf in Iraq.